Snowman 24 Part 4: Race Day 1
The view walking to the start of the Snowman Race.
During the 15 minute walk from our homestay in Laya to the start of the race at the Royal Highland Festival I couldn’t help stopping and just taking it all in. The morning was perfectly still, not even a whisper of wind. The high peaks glistened on the horizon with freshly fallen snow and the sky was so clear and crisp. A few ravens caw cawed as they flew through the bright blue sky and the bell on a yak dinged in rhythm to it’s chewing. Smoked drifted lazily from chimney’s of several homes. After a few minutes of observation, I smiled and quietly said, mostly to myself but also out loud, it is a perfect day to race.
Start preparations.
The starting area was a bit hectic when we arrived. A group of monks was busy preparing for a ritual that would proceed the start, volunteers were putting the finishing touches on the starting gate and chute that would direct us to the course, school kids were arriving, runners were fidgeting with gear and clothing in final preparation for the run. It felt as though time was moving at double speed, high fives and hugs amongst runners, butter tea was served, then we were told to sit for a ritual, now stand for a photo, and now gather here for the start, 3,2,1,…GO!
Start of the Snowman Race. Photo: Meghan Hicks/Snowman Race
The frenzy leading up to the start faded within the first 100 meters of running. I very quickly settled in to the rhythm of my steps and breathing, the world and all its worries faded out of the picture and what remained was running. Just running. The small field of runners spread out very quickly. The pace was brisk when taking in to account the difficulty of the entirety of the race ahead, but it was honest considering the distance of the day. The lead runners, the 3 Bhutanese and Cody, ran out of sight just after the first mile. I found myself in the 5th position not able to see runners ahead or behind and I was perfectly content to cover the mileage alone.
Early miles of the Snowman Race. Photo Brian Ralphs.
The trail on this early section was perfect, smooth single track. I was really enjoying the familiar movement as the first miles flowed by. We crossed the river and started a gentle climb to the village Lungo which, as we came in to town, had some tricky navigation as the course worked around and then through the small village. I was offered a mango Juice box at an impromptu aid station which I made the mistake of taking to go. I realized the mistake about a 100 meters after I grabbed the box and had sucked down its contents when I realized that I would be committed to carrying the box to the conclusion of the day. As I floundered to find a place in my pack to stuff the juice box I was caught by the next runner, Pema Choki. Pema is from the Laya area and is a cordyceps hunter and yak herder. She is also an incredible mountain runner. She ran around me as I finally found a place to stow the juice box, and she quickly put some distance between us on the technical descent. It was amazing to witness her skill as we both descended, Pema continually widening the gap between us. When the trail flattened out for a bit I was able to catch back up up and pass Pema.
Then I rounded a corner and saw Clare. This was a surprise as she hadn’t passed me since the race start, but there she was cruising down the trail ahead of me. As I caught up she was also surprised, and she said “I didn’t think I was ahead of you!” I told her that I didn’t think she was either and we both quickly realized that she had made an error with the tricky navigation on the edge of Lungo and she had completely bypassed the town! Of course, things like this happen and in no way was it intentional. I told her not to stress about it and we could figure out how to deal with the half mile or so that she bypassed later. Not long after we passed through the military camp, had a short section of road and then got to work when the route left the road and began climbing towards Rodulpho. On this first steep climb of the day I was once again caught by Pema. This time I had briefly stopped to get something out of my pack and I looked up to see her silently pass by. She was in her flow and focused on getting up the climb. We went back and forth three or four times during that ascent, before I once again pulled ahead on a flatter section.
Rodulpho Valley
After crossing the river near Rudolpho the route climbs directly in to the high country. I remembered the climb from the first edition of the race and fortunately this time I felt much better. I was able to hold a faster hiking pace and didn’t have to stop and simply breathe as I had the last time. Up and up and up I ran and hiked. There was a beautiful moment as I crossed the a pass just before Narathang. As I crested the climb two ravens flew up and then landed near me. It felt magic. I have a powerful connection to these birds, which happen to be the national bird of Bhutan. In the days leading up to the race I had several wonderful interactions, and this moment was another. The squawked and caw cawed, and we all paused for a few moments. Then they flew off and I continued running full of the vibrations and energy of the interaction.
Raven.
Karchung La 16,951’
The effort, and the altitude, starting to take it’s toll as I worked very hard up the final pass, and the high point of the day, Karchung La. This pass is 16,951’ above sea level. It is a beautiful place surrounded by peaks that tower above reaching nearly 6000 meters (19,000 feet and above), glaciers and even higher mountains on the horizon. I briefly paused to appreciate the view and then went to work on the final descent and miles of the day. I found that I was having a hard time descending the technical terrain, I felt clunky and out of rhythm.
Less than a half mile from the pass I paused to admire the glacier that flowed off the nearby peak. It took a moment to recognize, but to my astonishment I noted that the edge of the glacier had significantly retracted compared to where it had been two years prior. There is a glacial lake at the edge of the moraine, and previously the glacier had nearly reached the lake. Now, the edge was a probably 150-200 meters further up. I thought it could be just my poor memory, but later that night I would verify by comparing photos from the previous edition. The amount of change was pretty unnerving. I tried to shake off the feeling and resumed my clunky descent.
About half way down the descent Pema came by, and she was flying. I she passed I stood for a moment in awe at her skill and speed, then I tried to follow. She was exactly what I needed to break out of the trance of difficulty that I was wallowing in. As I followed her down I was able to move more fluidly and with a much faster pace. I wasn’t really gaining on her at all, as she held a 20 meter or so lead, but I also wasn’t falling behind. In one muddy section she slipped and I caught up to her and with her limited English she insisted that I lead for a bit. I did and was able to hold a pretty decent pace for ten or so minutes before I caught a toe, then my other foot slipped and I fell hard first to my chest then summersaulted over through section of boulders ending on my back. Pema was right there and offered a hand to help me get up. I was kind of shaken by the violence of the fall, it was the worst I had ever had trail running. I continued running on a bit of adrenaline for a few minutes after the fall with Pema right next to me. As the adrenaline waned I felt some pretty sharp pain on my iliac crest near my SI joint, but it wasn’t made worse by running so I continued on. A few moments later Pema and I ran into an opening and were greeted by the finish line 100 meters away. We finished the stage together.
Night Halt 1 is down by the Pho Chhu river below.
The night halt for stage 1 was situated next to the Pho Chhu river with views of massive peaks. There were many high fives and hugs as my fellow runners and friends greeted each other and celebrated the challenges of the day we had all experienced. That night we were treated to a wonderful meal and delightful company before we settled in to our tents for an early bed time.
Dinner!
Night at Night Halt 1